Ingredients Glossary

COLORS

MICAS

Mica

  • What is it? A range of silicate minerals that can add lustrous color to makeup.
  • Alternative Names:
  • INCI:
  • Properties: Mica adds luster, and sometimes color, to makeup products
  • Color: Naturally white, but treated with other metals, carmine, and colorants including iron oxides, ultramarines, and titanium dioxide to create a range of colors.
  • Coverage: Sheer
  • Finish: Semi-matte to lustrous, depending on product and desired effect
  • Skin type best for: Any
  • Notes: Vegan, unless mixed with carmine for color. The smaller the particle size, the less sparkly the mica will be. To maintain the highest amount of luster in a recipe, mix all the ingredients except the mica mechanically, then stir in the mica by hand.

Sericite

  • What is it? A range of silicate minerals ground more finely than mica and left uncolored.
  • Alternative Names:
  • INCI:
  • Properties: Sericite creates a base for mineral makeup, giving it slip and glide, while not noticeable changing the products adhesion. It reflects light, increases translucency, and gives finished cosmetics a low luster.
  • Color: White
  • Coverage: Sheer
  • Finish: Semi matte to low luster
  • Skin type best for: any
  • Notes: Vegan, with no surface treatments in addition to L-lysine and silica.

PIGMENTS

Chromium Oxide Greens

  • What is it? Chemical compounds made from chromium and oxygen.
  • Alternative Names: Chrome oxide, chromatic oxide
  • INCI:
  • Properties: Matte pigment
  • Color: Deep leaf green; the hydrated version is a teal green.
  • Coverage: Opaque
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: Any except acne-prone
  • Notes: Chromium Oxide greens are not approved for use on the lips in the United States. Vegan. Can irritate acne-prone skin.

Ferric Ferrocyanide

  • What is it? A matte blue pigment containing iron bound to cyanide so tightly that the cyanide is not released into the final product.
  • Alternative Names: Iron blue, Prussian blue, Prussian blue oxide
  • INCI:
  • Properties: A deep midnight-blue pigment
  • Color: Dark Blue
  • Coverage: Opaque
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: Any
  • Notes: Ferric Ferrocyanide is not approved for use on lips in the United States. It can be very messy to work with, leaving inky streaks. Vegan.

Iron Oxides

  • What is it? Chemical compounds made from iron and oxygen.
  • Alternative Names:
  • INCI:
  • Properties: Matte color additives used in foundations and other products.
  • Color: Come in black, red, or yellow and can be mixed together to make orange and brown.
  • Coverage: Opaque
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: Any
  • Notes: Vegan. The natural versions of iron oxides are known as ochers.

Manganese Violet

  • What is it? A vibrant pigment made from ammonium manganese pyrophosphate, an inorganic salt.
  • Alternative Names: Ammonium Manganese
  • INCI:
  • Properties: A matte pigment
  • Color: Bright violet
  • Coverage: Opaque
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: Any
  • Notes: Vegan

Titanium Dioxide

  • What is it? An opaque whitening agent made from oxide of titanium, which occurs naturally in the mineral's rutile, anatase, sphene, and ilmenite.
  • Alternative Names: Tatania, titanium oxide
  • INCI: Titanium Dioxide
  • Properties: Titanium dioxide provides coverage and adhesion for makeup bases while increasing the makeup’s opaqueness and protecting skin from ultraviolet light
  • Color: Cool white
  • Coverage: Opaque
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: any
  • Notes: Vegan. Titanium Dioxide mined directly from the earth may contain trace amounts of heavy metals. Therefore, most titanium dioxide in cosmetics has been purified and/or created in a lab to ensure its safety. In addition, most cosmetic-grade titanium dioxide has been micronized to improve application.

Ultramarines

  • What is it? Pigments composed of sodium, aluminum, silicate, oxygen, and sulfate.
  • Alternative Names:
  • INCI:
  • Properties: Matte pigments
  • Color: Royal blue, purplish pink, or lavender
  • Coverage: Opaque
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: Any
  • Notes: Vegan. Because ultramarines contain aluminum, those concerned about the aluminum connected to Alzheimer’s should avoid it.

Zinc Oxide

  • What is it? An inorganic chemical compound made by combining the mineral zincite with oxygen.
  • Alternative Names: Chinese white, flowers of zinc, zinc white
  • INCI: Zinc oxide
  • Properties: adding great coverage, adhesion, and staying power to makeup, zinc oxide whitens pigments and protects the skin from elements and irritants. It reflects UVB rays and offers sun protection. This soothing, astringent, antiseptic, ani-inflammatory, non-irritating substance is FDA approved as a skin protectant.
  • Color: Warm white
  • Coverage: Opaque
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: Oily or normal skin, including acne-prone skin, rosacea, sensitive skin
  • Notes: Vegan. Cosmetic-grade zinc oxide is offered in micronized and non-micronized versions. Smaller particles in the low micron variations offer more transparent coverage while still providing some protection against the sun.

ADHESIVES

Boron Nitride

  • What is it? An inert material in the form of an inorganic powder, made from boron and nitrogen.
  • Alternative Names: Borazon, boron glow, boron mononitride, elbor.
  • INCI: Boron Nitride
  • Properties: Soft & silky, boron nitride adds slip and improves application. It also absorbs oil, adds adhesion, and provide coverage.
  • Color: White
  • Coverage: Medium
  • Finish: Semi Matte
  • Skin type best for: Oily
  • Notes: Vegan. Because it smooths the appearance of wrinkles, boron nitride is great for mature skin.

Magnesium Myristate

  • What is it? A magnesium salt of myristic acid, a saturated fatty acid found in nutmeg, coconut oil, and butter fat.
  • Alternative Names:
  • INCI: Magnesium Myristate
  • Properties: Magnesium Myristate improves adhesion and slip and works as a binder, making it easier to press powders into a compact. It helps makeup last longer because it is water insoluble and rub resistant, and it gives makeup a smoother texture and finish and is often used to coat another ingredient to improve its characteristics.
  • Color: White
  • Coverage: Medium
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: Any
  • Notes: Vegan and botanical versions are available. Magnesium Myristate is a great addition to concealer. Zinc Stearate and Magnesium Stearate are alternatives.

Magnesium Stearate

  • What is it? The magnesium salt of stearic acid, a saturated fatty acid found in beef, coconut oil, and other animal and vegetable fats.
  • Alternative Names: Magnesium octadecenoate, octadecanoic acid
  • INCI: Magnesium Stearate
  • Properties: As an anticaking agent, magnesium stearate improves the slip and adhesion of makeup, giving powders a softer texture. It helps lubricate, bind, emulsify, and thicken powders.
  • Color: White
  • Coverage: Medium
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: Any
  • Notes: Vegan and botanical versions are available. The vegetable-derived versions have a two-year shelf life if handled and stored properly.

Zinc Oxide

  • What is it? An inorganic chemical compound made by combining the mineral zincite with oxygen.
  • Alternative Names: Chinese white, flowers of zinc, zinc white
  • INCI: Zinc oxide
  • Properties: adding great coverage, adhesion, and staying power to makeup, zinc oxide whitens pigments and protects the skin from elements and irritants. It reflects UVB rays and offers sun protection. This soothing, astringent, antiseptic, ani-inflammatory, non-irritating substance is FDA approved as a skin protectant.
  • Color: Warm white
  • Coverage: Opaque
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: Oily or normal skin, including acne-prone skin, rosacea, sensitive skin
  • Notes: Vegan. Cosmetic-grade zinc oxide is offered in micronized and non-micronized versions. Smaller particles in the low micron variations offer more transparent coverage while still providing some protection against the sun.

BINDERS

Fractionated Coconut Oil

  • What is it? A refined version of oil extracted from coconut kernels.
  • Alternative Names:
  • INCI:
  • Properties: Fractionated coconut oil is a very light binder that does not clog pores and is easily absorbed into the skin. The process of fractionating makes this oil fully saturated, which results in a very stable product with an extremely long shelf life.
  • Color: Clear
  • Coverage: Sheer
  • Finish: Lustrous
  • Skin type best for: Any
  • Notes: Vegan, botanical. Unlike regular coconut oil, the fractionated version remains liquid at room temperature. If handled and stored properly, fractionated coconut oil has an indefinite shelf life.

Jojoba Oil

  • What is it? Oil extracted from the seeds of Simmondsia Chinensis, a desert shrub
  • Alternative Names: Buxus Chinensis Oil
  • INCI:
  • Properties: This moisturizing binder is an excellent skin conditioner and lubricant.
  • Color: Golden
  • Coverage: Sheer
  • Finish: Lustrous
  • Skin type best for: Dry or normal
  • Notes: Vegan, botanical. In addition to controlling mildew, jojoba oil is an effective makeup remover and can be used as a carrier oil. Traditional desert communities have long used it as leave-in-hair conditioner. when handled and stored properly jojoba oil can have a shelf life of up to five years.

Magnesium Myristate

  • What is it? A magnesium salt of myristic acid, a saturated fatty acid found in nutmeg, coconut oil, and butter fat.
  • Alternative Names:
  • INCI: Magnesium Myristate
  • Properties: Magnesium Myristate improves adhesion and slip and works as a binder, making it easier to press powders into a compact. It helps makeup last longer because it is water insoluble and rub resistant, and it gives makeup a smoother texture and finish and is often used to coat another ingredient to improve its characteristics.
  • Color: White
  • Coverage: Medium
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: Any
  • Notes: Vegan and botanical versions are available. Magnesium Myristate is a great addition to concealer. Zinc Stearate and Magnesium Stearate are alternatives.

Magnesium Stearate

  • What is it? The magnesium salt of stearic acid, a saturated fatty acid found in beef, coconut oil, and other animal and vegetable fats.
  • Alternative Names: Magnesium octadecenoate, octadecanoic acid
  • INCI: Magnesium Stearate
  • Properties: As an anticaking agent, magnesium stearate improves the slip and adhesion of makeup, giving powders a softer texture. It helps lubricate, bind, emulsify, and thicken powders.
  • Color: White
  • Coverage: Medium
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: Any
  • Notes: Vegan and botanical versions are available. The vegetable-derived versions have a two-year shelf life if handled and stored properly.

Zinc Stearate

  • What is it? A metal salt of stearic acid, saturated fatty acid found in beef, coconut oil, and other animal and vegetable fats.
  • Alternative Names: Zinc distearate, zinc octadecenoate, zinc soap
  • INCI: Zinc Stearate
  • Properties: Zinc stearate absorbs oil, serves as a binder for pressed powder, and adds some slip.
  • Color: white
  • Coverage: Sheer
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: Normal, oily, or acne-prone skin
  • Notes: Vegan versions are available

OIL ABSORBERS

Boron Nitride

  • What is it? An inert material in the form of an inorganic powder, made from boron and nitrogen.
  • Alternative Names: Borazon, boron glow, boron mononitride, elbor.
  • INCI: Boron Nitride
  • Properties: Soft & silky, boron nitride adds slip and improves application. It also absorbs oil, adds adhesion, and provide coverage.
  • Color: White
  • Coverage: Medium
  • Finish: Semi Matte
  • Skin type best for: Oily
  • Notes: Vegan. Because it smooths the appearance of wrinkles, boron nitride is great for mature skin.

Calcium Carbonate

  • What is it? Chalk: a powder found in coral, limestone, and marble.
  • Alternative Names: Calcite, calcium salt, carbonic acid.
  • INCI:
  • Properties: As an oil and moisture absorber, calcium carbonate helps color retention and improves the adhesion of makeup.
  • Color: White
  • Coverage: Opaque
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: Oily and acne prone
  • Notes: Vegan. Use calcium carbonate in small amounts, as it can be drying if it makes up more than 5% of a recipe.

SLIPS

Bismuth Oxychloride

  • What is it? Bismuth is a by-product of lead and copper metal refining that, when combined with chloride and water, becomes bismuth oxychloride, which is used as a cosmetic colorant to produce a pearlized effect.
  • Alternative Names: Bismuthyl chloride, bismuth chloride oxide, chlorooxo-bismuthine
  • INCI:
  • Properties: This pearly powder is dewy and lustrous, offering great adhesion and improving the texture of finished makeup products by giving them a smooth and silky feel. Because it is hydrophobic, bismuth oxychloride is long lasting and will wear well all day, resisting water and sweat.
  • Color: White
  • Coverage: Medium
  • Finish: High luster
  • Skin type best for: None; see notes below
  • Notes: Vegan. I recommend not using this ingredient, as it is a known skin and eye irritant and can cause allergic reactions. it is especially dangerous for sensitive and acne-prone skin.

Boron Nitride

  • What is it? An inert material in the form of an inorganic powder, made from boron and nitrogen.
  • Alternative Names: Borazon, boron glow, boron mononitride, elbor.
  • INCI: Boron Nitride
  • Properties: Soft & silky, boron nitride adds slip and improves application. It also absorbs oil, adds adhesion, and provide coverage.
  • Color: White
  • Coverage: Medium
  • Finish: Semi Matte
  • Skin type best for: Oily
  • Notes: Vegan. Because it smooths the appearance of wrinkles, boron nitride is great for mature skin.

Magnesium Myristate

  • What is it? A magnesium salt of myristic acid, a saturated fatty acid found in nutmeg, coconut oil, and butter fat.
  • Alternative Names:
  • INCI: Magnesium Myristate
  • Properties: Magnesium Myristate improves adhesion and slip and works as a binder, making it easier to press powders into a compact. It helps makeup last longer because it is water insoluble and rub resistant, and it gives makeup a smoother texture and finish and is often used to coat another ingredient to improve its characteristics.
  • Color: White
  • Coverage: Medium
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: Any
  • Notes: Vegan and botanical versions are available. Magnesium Myristate is a great addition to concealer. Zinc Stearate and Magnesium Stearate are alternatives.

Magnesium Stearate

  • What is it? The magnesium salt of stearic acid, a saturated fatty acid found in beef, coconut oil, and other animal and vegetable fats.
  • Alternative Names: Magnesium octadecenoate, octadecanoic acid
  • INCI: Magnesium Stearate
  • Properties: As an anticaking agent, magnesium stearate improves the slip and adhesion of makeup, giving powders a softer texture. It helps lubricate, bind, emulsify, and thicken powders.
  • Color: White
  • Coverage: Medium
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: Any
  • Notes: Vegan and botanical versions are available. The vegetable-derived versions have a two-year shelf life if handled and stored properly.

Zinc Stearate

  • What is it? A metal salt of stearic acid, saturated fatty acid found in beef, coconut oil, and other animal and vegetable fats.
  • Alternative Names: Zinc distearate, zinc octadecenoate, zinc soap
  • INCI: Zinc Stearate
  • Properties: Zinc stearate absorbs oil, serves as a binder for pressed powder, and adds some slip.
  • Color: white
  • Coverage: Sheer
  • Finish: Matte
  • Skin type best for: Normal, oily, or acne-prone skin
  • Notes: Vegan versions are available

EMOLLIENTS

Cyclopentasiloxane

  • What is it? Cyclopentasiloxane is a clear liquid that absorbs quickly into the hair and skin. It gives a silky feel without making it greasy.
  • Alternative Names: Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Cross polymer
  • INCI: Cyclopentasiloxane
  • Properties: Cyclopentasiloxane can be used to adjust the viscosity of products and make them thinner or thicker
  • Color: Clear
  • Coverage: Sheer
  • Finish: Lustrous
  • Skin type best for:
  • Notes:

Isostearyl Alcohol

  • What is it? An easy spreading, colorless liquid fatty alcohol. It is moisturizing and has a very light, silk, soft dry skin feel.
  • Alternative Names:
  • INCI: Isostearyl alcohol
  • Properties: Is a stable vegetable derived liquid alcohol
  • Color: Clear
  • Coverage: Sheer
  • Finish: Lustrous
  • Skin type best for:
  • Notes:

Lauryl Laurate

  • What is it? Plant based multifunctional emollient and film former that reduces greasy feel of oil systems.
  • Alternative Names: Lauryl Laurate
  • INCI: Lauryl Laurate
  • Properties: Provides a silicone like after-feel
  • Color: Clear
  • Coverage: Sheer
  • Finish: Lustrous
  • Skin type best for:
  • Notes: Vegan. Naturally derived fatty alcohols obtained from vegetable oils (e.g. coconut oil, grapeseed oil, soybean oil.)

 

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What are a few essential tools and accessories to create a smokey eye look?

  • Eyeshadow Palette: Choose a palette with a range of dark, medium, and light shades to achieve the gradient effect of a smoky eye.
  • Eyeshadow Brushes: Different brushes are necessary for applying and blending the eyeshadow. A flat shader brush, a blending brush, and a pencil brush are commonly used.
  • Eyeliner: A black or dark-colored eyeliner, such as a pencil or gel liner, is essential for defining the lash line and creating a smoky effect.
  • Mascara: A volumizing or lengthening mascara helps to emphasize the lashes and complete the smoky eye look.
  • Eyeshadow Primer or Base: Applying a primer or base helps to create a smooth canvas for the eyeshadow, enhances its longevity, and intensifies the colors.

What are the essential shades and techniques for creating a classic smokey eye with a sultry and mysterious allure?

  • Classic Black and Gray: Using varying shades of black and gray eyeshadows creates a traditional and dramatic smoky eye.
  • Brown and Bronze: Warm brown tones combined with bronze or copper shades give a softer and more wearable smoky eye look.
  • Navy and Silver: For a twist on the classic, navy blue and silver shades offer a unique and striking smoky eye with a cool-toned edge.
  • Purple and Plum: Adding a pop of purple or plum shades to the smoky eye brings depth and a touch of vibrancy to the look.
  • Green and Gold: Green and gold eyeshadows create a captivating and luxurious smoky eye, perfect for making a statement.

Remember, while these combinations are popular, feel free to experiment with different colors based on your preferences and personal style. The key is to blend the shades seamlessly for that signature smoky effect.

How can I add depth and dimension to a smokey eye using differing eyeshadow finishes like matter, shimmer or satin?

  • Matte Eyeshadows: Use matte shades to create a smooth and seamless transition between colors. Start by applying a matte shade slightly darker than your skin tone as a transition color in the crease. Then, deepen the outer corner with a deeper matte shade to add dimension and create a smoky effect. Matte shadows are great for creating definition and structure in your eye look.
  • Shimmer Eyeshadows: Shimmer shadows are perfect for adding a touch of sparkle and light to your smoky eye. Apply a shimmer shade on the center of the lid to draw attention and create a focal point. This will add dimension and catch the light, making your eyes pop. You can also use a shimmer shade on the inner corner or brow bone to highlight and further enhance the dimension of the look.
  • Satin Eyeshadows: Satin shadows have a subtle sheen that falls between matte and shimmer. They are versatile and can be used to blend different finishes together. Apply a satin shade on the lid or use it as a transitional color to create a seamless gradient between matte and shimmer shades. Satin shadows add a soft luminosity to the smoky eye, giving it a sophisticated and polished look.

Remember to blend the different finishes well to achieve a cohesive and harmonious look. Matte shadows provide depth and structure, shimmer shadows add sparkle and light, while satin shadows bridge the gap between the two. By strategically placing and blending these finishes, you can create a smoky eye with stunning depth and dimension.

Are there any tips for blending and smudging eyeshadows to create a seamless and smoldering smokey seduction look?

  • Use a light hand: Start with a small amount of eyeshadow on your brush and gradually build up the intensity. It's easier to add more product than to remove excess, so take your time and blend gradually.
  • Blend with a fluffy brush: A soft, fluffy blending brush is your best friend for achieving a seamless blend. Use windshield wiper motions back and forth in the crease to ensure smooth transitions between colors.
  • Blend in circular motions: After applying the initial eyeshadow, use circular motions to blend the colors together. This technique helps to soften any harsh lines and create a diffused effect.
  • Layer and blend multiple shades: To add depth and dimension, layer different shades of eyeshadow. Start with a transition shade, gradually deepen the crease with a darker shade, and apply the darkest color to the outer corner. Blend each shade thoroughly to avoid any visible lines.
  • Use a clean brush for blending: Switch to a clean blending brush or wipe off any excess product before blending to avoid muddying the colors and achieve a seamless blend.
  • Smudge the lower lash line: To intensify the smokey effect, smudge some eyeshadow along the lower lash line using a pencil brush or a smudger brush. This will create a seductive and smoldering look.
  • Gradually build intensity: Start with lighter shades and gradually build up the intensity. It's easier to add more depth than to tone down a heavy application. Be patient and take your time to achieve the desired effect.